Each diamond shape is unique and offers its own set of advantages and disadvantages. Gentlemen, to choose the right diamond for your future wife, you will need to understand what each shape brings to the table and how this affects the price. Are there diamonds that give you more bang for your buck than others? I think so! The shape of a diamond will be one of the first features people will notice about a ring so read carefully and let me know if you have any questions.
There are many different shapes of diamonds and I will discuss each of them, but first it is important you understand a crucial fact which many overlook. Each diamond shape offers different brilliance, appearance of size and price, even if all other factors are the same. Each shape has a different proportion of crown (face of diamond) to pavilion (bottom of diamond), number of facets, and amount of light projected (brilliance). For an example, take a 1 carat, ideally cut, round diamond and cushion cut diamond; even though the diamonds are the same in every way, the round diamond will appear larger because of its shape. This is because round diamonds are cut more shallowly than cushion cut diamonds, meaning a cushion cut diamond carries more weight in its pavilion and therefore has less crown showing. Additionally, these two diamonds with exactly the same grade in each C, will have a different price tag. The round diamond will be about 30% more expensive. Does this mean you get more for your money by buying a cushion cut diamond? Maybe for you it does! This really depends on your personal taste. Let’s walk through each shape.
Round Cut
This is the most popular shape of diamond (about 70% of diamonds sold) and for good reason. A well-cut round diamond tends to look larger than many other diamond shapes, and sparkle the most. Round diamonds, with its signature 58 facets, is the king of brilliance because of the nature of its shape having near perfect symmetry. Diamond cutters and scientists have spent over a century perfecting this shape through precise mathematical calculations to optimize its presentation. The majority of people enjoy the classic and timeless features of this shape, but with the most popularity, comes the highest price.
Expect to spend a minimum of $5,500 for a 1 carat round cut diamond with ideal cut, H+ color, and VS2+ clarity.
Princess Cut
This is the second most popular shape of diamond. A well-cut princess diamond has 57 or 76 facets and is very brilliant, though less than round, oval, and pear cut diamonds. Many people are drawn to this shape of diamond for its sleek look and sharp edges. While a princess diamond has a smaller face than round a diamond because of its shape, it can appear larger due to its corner-to-corner length being longer than the diameter of round a shaped diamond. One thing to note before purchasing princess shape diamonds is that because this shape has such sharp corners you must be careful of chipping. A significant impact on the corner of a princess shaped diamond is likely to chip the stone. One way to mitigate this risk is to set the stone in a setting where each corner of the stone is covered.
Expect to pay a minimum of $4,000 for a 1 carat princess cut diamond with ideal cut, H+ color, and VS2+ clarity.
Cushion Cut
Cushion cut diamonds, otherwise known as pillow cut or old cut, was once the most popular shape of diamonds. Many people enjoy the softer and more romantic style the cushion cut provides. However, this shape has lost the majority of its popularity over the years due to the fact that it is not known for its brilliance or size appeal. Typically, this shape will look smaller and less sparkly than other diamond cuts. I should note, that this diamond is making a recent comeback due to improvements in its presentation through innovation of facets, moving from 58 to 64. Still, this situation creates a favorable price point for the people who prefer this shape, as it is one of the most affordable.
Expect to pay a minimum of $3,200 for a 1 carat cushion diamond with ideal cut, H+ color, and VS2+ clarity.
Pear Cut
This shape is my personal favorite and the shape I chose for my Fiancé. It is a combination of the round cut and marquise cut diamonds, and looks similar to a drop of water. The pear cut provides a unique style with the incredible brilliance of a round cut diamond. Like the round cut, the pear cut also typically has 58 facets. For me, this shape delivers great value as it offers many of the benefits of a round diamond but appears even larger and has a more affordable price point. In addition, the pear shape creates a slenderizing effect which will make the wearer’s finger look longer and more elegant. One thing to note before purchasing a pear shape diamond is to consider its length-to-width ratio. You do not want a pear shaped diamond that is too fat or too skinny. My recommendation is to stay within the range of 1.5 – 1.6 length-to-width ratio.
Expect to pay a minimum of $4,200 for a 1 carat pear diamond with ideal cut, H+ color, and VS2+ clarity.
Oval Cut
This shape is a modern twist on the classic round diamond, keeping the brilliance through its 58 facets, but elongating the round shape into an oval. It provides a smooth and trendy style and can arguably appear larger than a round shape diamond. The oval cut, like the pear cut, also creates a slenderizing effect which will make the wearer’s finger look longer and more elegant. Gentlemen should also pay close attention to the length-to-width ratio for this diamond shape as well. You do not want an oval shaped diamond that is too round or too oval. Again, my recommendation is to stay within the range of 1.5 – 1.6 length-to-width ratio.
Expect to pay a minimum of $4,200 for a 1 carat oval diamond with ideal cut, H+ color, and VS2+ clarity.
Emerald Cut
This shape is step cut (opposed to brilliant cut) meaning it has a series of straight facets (typically 57) that decrease in length, receding from the girdle. Emerald cut is not meant to have the sparkle and shine other diamond shapes do. Instead, it is meant to be peered into like a hall of mirrors and thus will have longer, more pronounced reflections. Even though this shape of diamond appears to be the largest over all, it has become less popular over the years due to its lacking brilliance and therefore is one of the most affordable diamond shapes. One thing to note about emerald cut diamonds is that color and clarity matter more with this shape than others. With such a large face, detecting color or imperfections becomes easier, meaning you should move up the grading scale in quality for these C’s.
Expect to pay a minimum of $3,000 for a 1 carat emerald diamond with ideal cut, H+ color, and VS2+ clarity.
Marquise Cut
This shape is another modified round cut diamond, which appears as more of a football or boat shape. With points on each end, this shape offers a major statement and more edgy style than its cousin the oval cut. This shape is known for its brilliance (also typically 58 facets), though less so than round, oval, or pear shapes, and its illusion of great size. If a gentleman is looking for a unique style and large appearance, this could be his best option. Again, length-to-width ratio is key with this shape. To present the optimal amount of length without having a diamond look too slender, stick to a ratio between 1.95 – 2.05. This will give the wearer’s finger maximum length and elegance. In my experience, viewers will take a much longer look at this diamond shape than a typical round or princess cut diamond.
Expect to pay a minimum of $4,000 for a 1 carat marquise diamond with ideal cut, H+ color, and VS2+ clarity.
Asscher Cut
This shape is another step cut diamond and can be thought of as more of a brilliant, square version of an emerald cut diamond. Asscher cut diamonds have large step facets, which create a high crown and smaller table. While you can still peer into this diamond like a hall of mirrors, your view will be more of a hybrid between traditional diamond sparkle and mirror reflection. This shape also has cropped corners like an emerald cut, but as it is square, this shape can look slightly octagonal. This shape offers an antique or almost rustic style, which can really give a ring some personality as a center stone. For those of you who are interested in this diamond shape but would like more brilliance than the traditional cut offers, there is what is known as, a royal asscher cut. The royal asscher cut tunes up the brilliance by increasing this shape’s traditional 58 facets to 74 facets.
Expect to pay a minimum of $3,000 for a 1 carat traditional asscher cut diamond with ideal cut, H+ color, and VS2+ clarity.
Radiant Cut
This shape is the original square cut diamond to have both a brilliant cut crown and pavilion (like the princess cut). With its slightly cropped corners, this shape is the mid-point between the cushion cut and princess cut shapes. This diamond shape is enjoyed for its brilliance and depth, as it is comprised of typically 70 facets. With its increased number in facets and deeper pavilion, the radiant cut diamond is one of the most brilliant of all square or rectangular shaped diamonds. This is advantageous as this diamond shape can hide inclusion more efficiently than other shapes because of its brilliance. This diamond shape is also interesting in that it can be set in a ring with supporting stones of either round or square diamonds without breaking its continuity.
Expect to pay a minimum of $3,200 for a 1 carat radiant cut diamond with ideal cut, H+ color, and VS2+ clarity.
Heart Cut
This shape is another modified round cut diamond, which appears as the shape of a heart. It is enjoyed as it is quite unique and directly symbolizes love. While this shape is occasionally found on rings, as a personal preference, I would not use this shape diamond on an engagement ring. This diamond shape comes off as “cute” and will not have the impressive look or genuine symbolism other diamond shapes bring for an engagement ring. Typically, people use this shape for pendants on necklaces or bracelets. For this shape, symmetry is key, as both sides of the heart must be identical or the diamond will look improper. Another key note is the shape should be at least .75 carats for its shape to be obvious. If a heart shape diamond is smaller than .50 carats, it can easily be mistaken for a round cut or upside-down pear cut diamond.
Expect to pay a minimum of $4,000 for a 1 carat heart cut diamond with ideal cut, H+ color, and VS2+ clarity.
Conclusion
Gentlemen, as you now have an understanding of the different shapes of diamonds, their qualities, price, and presentation, you can begin to consider what you are looking for. What is the best diamond shape? It depends on what you want. Are you looking for a diamond which is unique, presents itself larger than others, and is more affordable than a round cut diamond? Then I would think about purchasing an oval, pear, or marquise cut diamond. Are you looking for a diamond which purely looks the largest and is very affordable? Then, maybe an emerald cut diamond is the best for you. For me, the best diamond shape is the pear cut, as it is the center stone shape to the ring my Fiancé wears today. One suggestion I have when considering your diamond shape is to not only consider size, brilliance or price, but to consider your girlfriend’s style and taste. She will be wearing this special piece of jewelry for a life time and your ring should compliment her beauty, personality and style.
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